The Sumpners Afloat

5th Aug to 11th Aug – leaving London canals and onto the Thames

We slipped out of Limehouse at about 09:30 on Monday – another really fine day. We had 12 locks to do to get to our evening destination – the CRT bookable moorings at Paddington Basin.

We stopped for lunch in Islington at Galata – a canal side cafe below City Road Lock. We had a cheeseburger, chicken burger and chicken wraps and enough perfectly seasoned chips to feed double our number. Not cheap but freshly cooked and excellent quality.

We came past the Everyman Open Air Cinema at King’s Cross. The screen is one side of the canal and the seating is the other. We toyed with the idea of stopping the boat in front of the screen (wicked!) and upsetting a whole host of kids, but Paul wouldn’t let us. It’s very well patronised and a lovely thing to do on a sunny day. They were showing Ice Age as we passed..

Camden Lock was heaving as ever, more pics of my boat race! God – who’d be a celebrity, eh? Once again we saw Colobus Monkeys and Warthogs but also Dingos, as we went through Regent’s Park. It’s a very busy bit of towpath – and at one point we were serenaded by some random chap – possibly drunk/drugged? Very funny.

As we came out of Maida Hill Tunnel, a Go Boat (they are a bit of a nuisance!) suddenly took a dive across our bows and promptly hit a moored boat on our starboard side. They went into panic mode and we had to do an emergency stop, by which time another GoBoat was up our rear end. We let them both sort themselves out, before going on our merry way.

We arrived at Little Venice and turned left, back on to the Paddington Arm – the booked moorings are right under St. Mary’s Hospital but very nice. Lots of places to eat/shop for food – oh and a GoBoat Depot. Deep Joy! It had been a very hot day and we all looked a little touched by the sun. It was showers all round before a hearty meal of Toad in the Hole. Mash and Broad Beans.

On Tuesday, we had a plan for Evie to come and meet us at Paddington with her friend Emma. She was due in at 10:30 and we moved the boat down to the station entrance just before. I grabbed a coffee from the Airstream cafe, accompanied by a delicious Nutella Sfogliatella. In case you haven’t come across them they are Italian pastries, made in a sort of shell shape – often called lobster tails in the US. They have many crisp layers of pastry and are filled with – traditionally – a lemon and ricotta cream They are a joy and look like this

While I (and Paul!) were scoffing, Bruce and Lenny took the boys onto the station concourse to meet the girls. They were soon back and we set off towards Little Venice and onwards towards Willesden. Sadly, it rained for the latter part of the girls’ trip and we dropped them off in the pouring rain. It was an 8 minute walk to the station (Willesden Junction), and neither of them had coats, of course, being teenagers. It was lovely to see them and we are very glad that they made the effort.

We stopped where we had dropped them off for lunch, as the rain was becoming quite persistent. The boating is left to me and Bruce today, as poor Paul is working. Bruce did sterling work in the rain, as can be seen in the pic below.

We continued our journey after lunch and the rain eventually petered out, and left a sunny remainder of the day. We moored up fairly early and I spent the afternoon teaching Lenny to play Cribbage – he was an apt pupil. We decided we’d move on, late afternoon, and eventually found a nice quiet spot for the night.

After dinner (Fajitas) we gave Bruce a quick Cribbage refresher as it had been a while since he had played, before playing a couple of games – Paul and Bruce v Lenny and me. Sadly they beat us both times. We finished the evening with a quick game of Uno Flip, which restored Lemmy’s bruised ego, as he was the victor.

Wednesday was a much sunnier day – at least initially – and Bruce set the boat off while I washed up the breakfast things and then joined him. It did not take long until we were at Cowley Peachey Junction, where we turned left towards Brentford. When we reach Brentford, we will have completed our navigation of the entire length of the Grand Union Canal mainline on Old Nick. All 137 miles and 166 locks of it. We’ve also done all of its navigable arms – other than the Wendover and Buckingham Arms, which are under restoration.

As we were going under one bridge, a chap started snapping away. He shouted “Give me your phone number and I’ll send them to you”. Bruce supplied his number, and shortly after received the pics. How very nice! Although the begging texts sent out to Bruce’s friends and family, using his number didn’t go down so well! *

The canal through Southall is pretty full of rubbish – mainly plastic bags and it was not too long before we hit the first of the day’s 8 locks – the Norwood pair. As Paul was working, Lenny and Bruce did the locks. The final 6 locks were in the Hanwell flight, which passes by the former “Hanwell Pauper and Lunatic Asylum”, which has a fine brick wall and a glimpse of some of the original buildings. The hospital was renowned for its revolutionary treatment of the mentally ill and was the first large asylum to do away with all mechanical restraints

We were all pretty hungry after the locks and had a hearty lunch of bacon and egg rolls, after which we all felt pretty drowsy. Bruce took Lenny off with the sea magnet, for a spot of magnet fishing. They found a few little things (a nut and some nail-clippers) but the main excitement was an M&S food trolley, which they found but could not lift out. They had quite a few people watching them and they had been joined by a CRT guy. He, luckily, had a grappling iron with him, and it was pulled out and will be disposed of. Quite an excitement for them though. The CRT guy told them to throw back the bits they had fished out – it’s better then leaving them on the bank.

When they returned, they declared their intention of going blackberrying. If Lenny is at all like George, I gave that all of 10 minutes before he got fed up of being pricked! I wasn’t wrong! Don’t think I’ll be making jam tonight! After their exertions, Bruce took himself off for a siesta, while Lenny did what Lenny does – with a phone. And me? Making a Bolognese for supper.

We spent the evening playing “Outsmarted” – a quiz game, which I’m please to say I won! Sad that it is their last night, but we have more guests arriving next week – mid-week. It’s relentless this time of year! But lovely to see people. I ain’t complaining!

Thursday morning was beautifully sunny as we made our way down the last couple of locks to Brentford. The canal is almost rural and quite wide – you could almost believe you were already on the Thames! Arriving at Brentford, we quickly dumped the loo, before going down the gauging lock. This was once one of the busiest places on the Grand Union Canal / River Brent. 

Its construction provided a gateway from the Thames to the canals of the Midlands. Cargo from the Thames, carried along the canal included timber, steel, tar, corn, bricks, coal and coffee. Boatmen would pay a toll to pass through the lock based on the weight and value of what was being carried.

We got permission to moor on the lower lock landing as we were meeting some old friends. They came for coffee and Welsh Cakes plus the “ten bob tour” of the boat. It was our friends Peta Jane (from Fareham) and her husband Nick (Lowe – yes that one) and their son Roy. So lovely to see them and very honoured that he had his pic taken by Old Nick. They were very impressed with Old Nick and it was lovely having a catch-up.

After they had gone, I threw together a quick lunch, before it was time for Bruce and Lenny to leave us. It’ s always sad to see them go. We had a great time, I think?

After they had gone, we made our way down to Thames Lock, which leads out onto the tidal Thames. We had a passage booked in the 16:07 to 17:07 window. The times allotted are to coincide with the tide – you lock out onto the Thames approx 2 hours before high tide and go up stream with the incoming tide. What could go wrong?

Well, luckily, nothing. We were in the 2nd lockful of boats to be let out and were soon heading upstream, doing a respectable speed (for us) but still left for dead by the diesel boats! We passed Syon House – London home of the Percy family – Dukes of Northumberland, and were soon admiring the riverfront properties in sedate Richmond. There is a strange structure at Richmond – Richmond Lock and Weir, which is owned by the Port of London Authority.

The weir comprises three vertical steel sluice gates suspended from a footbridge. Each gate weighs 32.6 tonnes and is 20 metres wide and 3.64 metres in depth. For around two hours each side of high tide, the sluice gates are raised into the footbridge structure above, allowing ships and boats to pass through the barrage.  For the rest of the day the sluice gates are closed and passing river traffic must use the lock alongside the barrage.

The sluice gates ensure that the water level between Richmond Lock and Teddington Lock is maintained at or above half-tide level. Apparently?

We arrived at Teddington Lock and waited for about 10 minutes for the lock, which eventually disgorged a couple of boats who were locking down. We were then permitted to enter the lock. There followed another wait of about 10 minutes, but we finally found a space to moor and were tied up by about 6:30 ish. Quite an exciting day all round, really! It had been a grey and chilly cruise from Brentford, but the next few days look pretty good weather-wise, and we are looking forward to cruising the beautiful Thames in the sunshine.

We went off to sleep, soothed by the susurration of the nearby weir, which is beautifully illuminated at night. We slept for a full ten hours – having guests really takes it out of you! But we are very much missing them today. Particularly that typical teenage boy cry of “I’m hungry”, some twenty minutes after you have fed them a hearty meal!

We set off around 10:15 – it’s looking to be a rather lovely day. We have no food on board but we won’t starve! And there is a Waitrose in Kingston, so a call in there is on the cards. Be warned – it looks as if it’s right by the water but is in fact a little further on – good to know if you’re lugging heavy bags! Use the route shown on the map to avoid lugging heavy groceries down steps. There are blue signs which say No Mooring – ignore them. As you draw close to shore they actually say you can moor for 24 hours.

I went off to Waitrose while Paul stayed with the boat. He came to meet me when I had finished to help lug our supplies. There’s a great John Lewis there as well, which I did have a quick flick round after my grocery shop. And of course I made a purchase – some Tory Burch Eau de Parfum for me (Sublime Rose) and some after shave for Paul (Terre de Hermes). I got chatting to a lovely assistant and he gave me shedload’s of lovely samples!

It was perfect weather – sunny with a gentle zephyr – and the thoughtful sun popped behind the clouds occasionally to give a brief respite from its glare. We cruised on down, past Hampton Court, which was the furthest point we had reached on the Thames in our 2021 Cruise – through Molesey Lock and on to Sunbury Lock – accompanied by a big and powerful-sounding push-tug with a flat barge.

It was very sunny and hot by mid afternoon – almost too hot, if I’m honest. We arrived in Walton on Thames and found a great spot, roughly where we’d moored before on our 2021 cruise. As it was both breezy and sunny, I quickly popped a load of washing out, even though it was pretty late in the day. I reckon it should dry?

We booked a table for dinner at The Anglers, Walton on Thames to save having to cook. I’ve done enough of that the past few days! I’m sad to say, though, that we’ll be adding it to a lengthening list of “Disappointing Pub Meals”. I know times are hard, but they really need to up their game or times will get even harder!

The washing was dry by morning and we packed it all away before setting off. Always a good feeling. We set off towards the first lock of the day, passing D’Oyly Carte Island – former home of Richard D’Oyly Carte of Gilbert & Sullivan fame (among other notable things), who is sometimes described as the Simon Cowell of his age. He built a grand house on the 2 acre island, consisting of 13 bedrooms, a grand ballroom, 5 bathrooms, 40 boat moorings and, on the mainland parking for 40 cars. 

The house is currently being restored to its former glory. He kept a pet crocodile there (I know, right?) which escaped into the Thames. He offered a reward (all of £250!) for its capture and it was returned to him within the month. Imagine cruising along and seeing that!

Shortly after, we passed the entrance to the R. Wey and passed through Shepperton Lock. It was quite a long day of cruising and we also passed through Chertsey, Penton Hook and Runnymede locks (all unmanned), before mooring at about 17:30, in almost the exact same spot that we had moored with Bruce and Len 3 years ago. It’s a lovely spot – apart from being on the Heathrow flight path – but we’ll probably have to live with that for a couple more days, yet!

We had a slow start on Sunday morning – kinda easy? LIke our eggs – which were poached today. We finally cast off at around 10:30 and made our way upriver to Windsor, passing through Old Windsor lock, where we enquired about the electric charging point. We had called in there twice on our Thames cruise back in 2021. Both times we were told that it was new and that they had no means of taking payment and refused our offers of cash or a free stay! Well, we thought, it was bound to be sorted out by now, and it was clearly vacant. This time we were told that it is “only for contract moorers”. Hmm. That stinks. Needless to say I have dashed off an email to the Environment Agency, expressing my disappointment. Harumph!

Our route took us directly under the incoming flight path for Heathrow. I loved it. I timed them and they were coming over at a rate of one per minute, with landing gear down. We seem to have spent the last few weeks skirting round Heathrow! As you do!

Windsor was heaving, as ever, with no room on the Brocas – the bit near town, where all the action is. But we found a slightly quieter spot by the Leisure Centre that was the perfect length for us and nipped in. I think we gave the old gent in the gin palace behind us a bit of scare, because he came racing over to grab our line. He had reckoned without the dead-eye precision of the Old Nick crew! We hadn’t decided whether to just stay for lunch or for the night when there came a knock on the door – the mooring bailiff was hot on our tail! We paid our tenner, so that clinches it. We are staying here tonight!

Well, it’s been another action-packed week for Old Nick – more new ground covered and more new experiences. We are now on a bit of a mission – we need to be to the North of Banbury before the middle of September for Paul’s work commitments. Bearing in mind we can really only cruise at weekends, I think I’ll be doing a fair bit of solo helming! Game on!

Oh – and what became of poor, injured Juliet, I hear you ask? A trip to hospital, and an X-ray. Diagnosis? A possible fracture or a severe sprain – the treatment for either is the same – with a predicted recovery period of 10-12 weeks. Not great news for her, sadly.

This week’s blog post song title is partly an homage to Nick and his music and partly a message about what we need to see on our streets, rather than the vile racism and violence we are currently experiencing. May humanity and peace prevail.

*I made that up!

Period	Miles	Locks
5th to 1th August	62	20
Cumulative	262	228

• * I made that up!