Week 1 – July 21st to 28th – setting off and arriving in Europe
DAY 1 – TUESDAY – We awoke early on Tuesday morning, eager to get away. Unfortunately something had broken on the cassette toilet and we needed to grab a part to get us our of trouble. Great start!
We had looked for caravan and motorhome parts and accessories stores along out route and had found one – just off route – near Maidstone. We had rung them and they had just one in stock, which they agreed to reserve, ready for us to pick up on our way through to the tunnel.
We packed everything away, emptied our tanks and set off in high spirits. We’d had a lovely stay at Rookesbury, which seemed bigger than when we had spent our first overnight stay in our very first caravan back in 2012. We think they must have enlarged it?
We arrived at Lee Davey Caravans late morning, waltzed into the shop, grabbed the part (ouch! Best part of £70!) and out again within 10 minutes. Great service. And don’t you love it when a plan actually works? Mission Accomplished. We felt very smug. Riding for a fall you say?
We arrived at the Eurotunnel, checked in, then checked the boys in at the “Pet Check-in”, still feeling happy. We were a couple of hours early, but in the past they’ve generally popped us on an earlier train and we hoped that this would be a similar scenario. This was where our luck ran out. Ever heard of hubris?
Due to “an unexpected reduction in the number of trains in service, you may experience longer than usual waiting times”. Not the text you want to receive, even though we were assured that “our teams are working hard to minimise delays and get you on your way”. As it transpired, we did not get away until gone 19:30 and, once in France we still had an hour to go to get to out first night spot at Bray Dunes. No chance of stocking up in a French supermarket as planned, just drive to get there. it was twilight by the time we arrived,
It was our first time of using an “Aire de Camping Car” – not allowed to be used by caravans. I had booked it and the app showed that there was still a place for us. We just had to get past the blooming barrier! That took about 15 minutes of try this – try it again. OK – one more time. Let me do it. Look online. And finally! You don’t enter your whole membership number – just the last 6 digits. Of course we won’t tell you that. We’ll just let you puzzle it out. Funny looking back on it, but it really was the cherry on the icing on the cake of a long, hot and boring day. Still – we know now – although it was our first and last night in La Belle France for some weeks.
Another ready meal and straight to sleep – no reading. Almost unheard of.
The aires usually have hook-up, rubbish and waste water dumping facilities – all you need for an overnighter really. Bray Dunes, by the way, is the northernmost town and the northernmost point in all of France (mainland and overseas territories). It’s smack bang on the Belgian border. The dunes are beautiful, with long swathes of white sandy beaches. But we had no time for a dip in the North sea. We had places to be.
DAY 2 – WEDNESDAY – Our next night spot was in Ieper (as it is spelt in Belgium) or Ypres – or even Wipers , as it was dubbed by the WW1 Tommies. The area is Flanders, whose name is so evocative of WW1. Driving through, it was hard to imagine the horror and bloodshed that occurred in these parts.
Our destination in Ypres was the Urban Gardens campsite, which is currently undergoing some renovation, although this is not an issue in any way. We stopped on the way at a handy Aldi to get some supplies, before proceeding the short distance to the site. The reception was a little tricky to find, but we were soon settled in. Pitches are somewhat cosy but we met some very nice English campers, who were returning from a grand tour as far as Bosnia (which they recommend), Montenegro and Croatia.
We had a short nap and then got on our bikes for the cycle into town. The site is in a great location, very close to town. We planned to have dinner before watching the daily Last Post ceremony at the Menin Gate. Something we’d always wanted to experience.
We have brought our fold up E-go Lite E-bikes from the boat. They will form the basis of our exploration transport. Since puppyhood, the boys have been trained either to run alongside us on the towpath or other transport free routes. On roads, they are happy to be carried in the doggy backpacks that we also used with Archie, our previous Border Terrier. Although there are cycle paths everywhere in both Belgium and Holland, we didn’t feel it was appropriate to let them run free. Plus we were going into a town with cars.
We passed through the Menin Gate – designed by Sir Reginald Blomfield and built by the then Imperial War Graves Commission (now known as Commonwealth War Graves Commission) and unveiled in 1927 to commemorate the thousands of British and Commonwealth soldiers who were killed in the Ypres Salient of World War I and whose graves are unknown. The memorial is located at the eastern exit of the town and marks the starting point for one of the main roads that led Allied soldiers to the front line.
A “salient”, by the way, is a military term for a part of a battle line that protrudes into enemy territory, in this case the Western Front. The German army held the high ground on the ridges around Ypres, looking down at the British and French forces in the wet, muddy fields below them. Because the enemy surrounded the salient on three sides, soldiers inside faced constant artillery fire from multiple directions. It must have been terrifying, exhausting and very dangerous, hence the large loss of life.
We arrived in a large square, with the massive and very beautiful 13th century Cloth Hall in one corner. It was rebuilt, brick by brick, after the war and now houses the “In Flanders Fields” Museum. This picture shows the devastation wreaked upon it during the war and must have been an incredible feat to restore it. It is a truly beautiful building.
As we ate our dinner (at the very pleasant Marktcafé Les Halles), we were serenaded by the 49 bell carillon, which sounds very prettily on the quarter, half and hour. Paul fancied some Belgian Moules Frites and we chose probably the only eatery in Ypres that didn’t serve them – but they were happy to allow is to eat there with the dogs. We both chose delicious salads – mine Smoked Mackerel and Paul’s Smoked Salmon. Both delicious.
After dinner we made our way back to the Menin Gate and by now a large crowd was forming. I had posted on Facebook about our location and one of my oldest friends (Julia) contacted me to say that her Great Uncle Harry had died in battle, aged 20 and was on panel 14. We promised to look for him. Knowing of someone made the ceremony all the more personal and we both struggled to hold back tears as the last post was played. It was one of those rare moment that gives you shivers. Remembering all those young men who lost their lives fighting for their country was a humbling experience and a very much shared human experience, the like of which I’ve never before encountered. Spellbinding.
After the ceremony finished, we found Julia’s Great Uncle Harry Varney Eacott listed on Panel 14 as she had told us. So very sad.
We cycled back to the campsite and, once again fell into bed. And we had a deadline to make the next day, so we’d be up and at it early.
DAY 3 – THURSDAY – just a quick word about Belgian “B roads”. They seem to be constructed of concrete slabs with a thin sandwich of tarmac gluing them together. Local friends will understand when I say it’s a bit like the M27. Very noisy – especially in a rattly motorhome. We were glad to join the more conventionally surfaced motorway as we headed towards our 3rd country in as many days, The Netherlands.
As you may know, Belgium is famous for it’s friteries, which are everywhere. It’s definitely no coincidence that, as we drove along, almost every field was full of potato plants! Millions of ’em!
Our nephew, Lenny, was joining us for a few days, flying into Schipol airport from Gatwick, solo. His first entirely solo trip.The plan was to arrive at our next campsite, just outside Haarlem and then for Paul to go and meet him and bring him back. Other than the flight being a little delayed in take off, once again, the plan worked perfectly.
Arriving at the campsite was a little more tricky and involved a roughly 4 hour drive, including passage through the 6.6km long Westerschelde tunnel, culminating in a passage down a very narrow lane. I had just remarked that we really didn’t want to meet someone, when round the corner came a massive lorry. The man I now call Cool Hand Paul took evasive action and somehow we scraped through – not literally!
The campsite – Urban Camper Spot Amsterdam Haarlem was small but we found a spot and got hooked and levelled up. It had everything required for a good stay and was clean and friendly. Paul went off in search of Lenny while I looked after the boys and did a bit of writing.
Lenny and Paul arrived back and the boys were very pleased to see him. We had a late dinner and then it was time to set up the bed for Lenny. In normal circumstances, as this was the first time of use, we would have a had a practice run but this did not happen. There was much grunting and scratching of heads, a little swearing and a point blank refusal to consult the manual.
Eventually, the bed was made and we all nodded off to sleep.
DAY 4 – FRIDAY – next challenge. Unmaking the bed and folding out the 3rd travelling seat. Once again, a practice might have been a good idea, but we soon had Len ensconced in his spot next to the boys, who travel in crates, which we strap in so that they do not move in an emergency.
As we were so close, we thought we’d go and have a quick look at Zandvoort, current home of the Dutch Grand Prix – although 2026 will be the last one held there. There was also the dunes and beach to see. But Zandvoort had other ideas. Although we managed to catch a glimpse of its charms, Zandvoort had no place for campers to park – unless you wanted to pay €46 for an overnight stay. We didn’t, so off we sped to find our nightspot for the next two nights in Breezand, Northern Holland.
Breezand and the area in general is known for tulip growing and we could see vestiges of it in the fields. Must be a real sight in the springtime. We stopped for coffee and a snack at a service station on the way, which had a Spar food outlet. Very impressed with communications, Lenny said they “spoke better English than the Spar in Beckenham”. Made us chuckle.
We arrived at the very cute Camping De Tulpenweide early afternoon and quickly had lunch, followed by the first of many games. The site is a small but perfectly formed and great for young children. Animals to feed, various ride-ons to trundle round the site and events especially for them at weekends in the school holiday. While we were there, they had gone out on a walk and had brought back a branch which they were painting. The animals include goats, chickens, rabbits, and the latter two wander freely around the site. I loved it.
Paul had done some research, hired a bike for Len and we set off to a place called Beach Bites, where we’d have supper and a beer or two. One of the things we really love about Belgium and the Netherlands is the provision,of safe routes for cyclists. Everywhere. Good surfaces with their own pelican crossings and an absolute joy to ride (and it’s very flat!).
We had a lovely meal and the place had such a friendly, laid back vibe. We really liked it. It was in a village called Westerland – very Game of Thrones, I felt? Len took Bill on his back on the outward trip and I took him on the way back. 11 kgs of dog and 10 km. I think we’d worked off our supper!
DAY 5 – SATURDAY – We awoke to find a pet rabbit nibbling the grass on our pitch.. Who needs a lawnmower? Luckily the boys did not see it or we might have had trouble!
After a nice breakfast, with fresh morning rolls, we set off in the direction of Den Helder. We made our first visit to a Jumbo supermarket just outside Den Helder. Jumbo is a Dutch owned company and has been sponsoring Max Verstappen since 2013 when Verstappen was racing in the Formula 3 European Championship and also sponsored Formula 2 and Formula E champion Nyck de Vries . It was Lenny’s high point of the holiday – a visit to Jumbo! We know how to show a lad a good time!
Den Helder, by the way, was also lacking in motorhome spaces, so we had lunch in a layby on a housing estate!
I thought Len might like a cooling bathe in the North sea and we set off for the “strand” – which is also used in English to mean the land bordering a body of water : shore, beach. We finally found a spot to park and off they went for a walk on the beach, up and over a steep dyke and a paddle. He hadn’t fancied a swim after all. Ice creams followed and then we set off back to our campsite.
We had showers and then played some games before joining in the burger evening they were holding. Delicious, generous homemade burgers with Cheese, lettuce, smashed avo and Pico de Gallo. Juicy and delicious with homemade potato salad and coleslaw. Very acceptable and no cooking or washing up!
DAY 6 – SUNDAY – it was time to move on. We had loved the site and Len had made good use of the hired bike – popping out on his own and with Paul, for a beer. But somewhere new beckoned.
It was a trifle overcast as we left. Our destination would take us over and along the Ijsselmeer – a large (and I mean large) freshwater lake. It was very dark of sky as we navigated our way round it and it looked quite dramatic, with Cormorants racing along by our side. Boy, they can fly!
Eventually we arrived, in the tain, at our final night spot with Lenny – Camping Kleine Belterwijde, in Belt-Schutsloot, a watery village that could not be reached by road until as late as 1959. Set on the Kleine Belterwijde lake, it is the perfect site for watery activities. A little tight once again for a 8m motorhome but we (or rather Paul) managed. The whole area is in the beautiful Weerribben-Wieden National Park and we’d be exploring it the next day.
While I unpacked, the boys went out cycling out to a local bar and Len experienced that Dutch delicacy Bitterballen for the first time. He liked them. It rained quite heavily overnight.
DAY 7 – MONDAY – Boat trip day. It was a bit grey and threatening when we picked up our boat – electric of course. But we had coats for us and a brolley for Len. We set off along one of the waterways towards a town called Zwartsluis, where we moored and had a very pleasant lunch pannenkeokken for Len and me and Mustard Soup for Paul.
We copped a couple of short sharp showers along the way, but had a really good explore of the watery lakes and alleyways. We’d been promised the possibility of spotting otters and other wildlife. We loved it, it was so peaceful .- apart from the pesky horseflies! Which, other than a fair few varieties of Dragonfly, were pretty much the only wildlife we encountered! We have the bites to prove it. I thought that I might have got bored but not so – although perhaps Len (for whom we’d designed this experience) was perhaps less engaged?
Here’s a short video of our cruise
After we returned the boat, it was ice-creams all round. – well we are on holiday! Showers and games followed and all too soon we realised it was Lenny’s last night with us! He’d be flying back to London the next day. Buy more of that next week. We hope you have enjoyed the first instalment of the The Sumpners Ashore!
| Period | Miles | Cumulative |
| Week 1 | 685 | 685 |